Confirmed: Foxwell NT510 Elite can register battery successfully for 2006 BMW 325i. Can it change the battery type from AGM to Lead? Go on reading.
Car model and year:
2006 BMW 325i, and bought costco (suggested) Interstate non-AGM H6(48) CA 910, CCA730.
Tool to use:
Bought Foxwell NT510 Elite
It registered battery successfully with correct amp (91), which is found automatically, but battery type is AGM, which is not correct. I found new entry in battery history. It seems registration is passed (partial) successfully.
Also, when it say’s register successfully, the software frozen. I am not sure if there is any other action is needed, such as configure the AMP (somehow it found 91, which seems correct). I have to unplug and plug back, and found new registration record.
Listen to @ Mark963 (bimmerfest user) advice and test report:
BMW’s only allow certain capacities of batteries. like 70, 80, 90, 110Ah. If you add 1 to that capacity, the BWM software takes that to mean their base number and it’s AGM. So a 90Ah AGM is coded as 91. You may have to round up or down a bit, like an 94Ah flooded battery would be coded as 90. Or an 78Ah AGM would get coded as 81Ah.
No coding tool I’ve seen can figure out the capacity for you. You need to input that value. The 91 reported is just read as 90Ah, AGM. The Costco website shows an Interestate H6 with 730CCA, 910CA and 70Ah at 10Hr rate. I believe that’s the one you bought, so try entering 70Ah as the capacity and see if that doesn’t indicate non-AGM after it’s programmed.
It’s been a while since I used the Foxwell NT520 to program the battery, but it seemed to work.
Someone said: You cannot drive enough to charge the battery, not if you drove 24/7. Your BMW charges the battery only on overrun, trailing throttle or alternator coasting down on its sprag clutch pulley.
@ Mark963’s point of view:
That’s a silly statement. So all those people who just drive their cars and never charge the battery will drain it dead and… I guess buy a new one every 4-10 hours of driving time??
These cars track the total amps hours going in and out of the battery and when the car has been shut down and stable long enough, they do a calculation of the state of charge. You can even read out the state of charge for the last 5 days with that Foxwell NT510 Elite or INPA on PM Field 2. One sample of mine showed 77.34%, 78.91%, 82.03%, 77.73%, 62.50%, 65.23%. And yeah, they don’t try to keep the battery at full charge and that’s fine, although it’s a good idea to fully charge now and then.
When the battery isn’t changed enough, the alternator is kicked up all the time to get sufficient charge into the battery. When it’s cold and the battery takes more voltage to charge, mine is often 14.8-15.0 volts seemingly all the time. But when the ice goes away and I do longer drives, it drops down 14.