Looking for Honda Civic Type R Stopping power Part Pads Discs etc:
Looking for the source of pads, discs and any other parts related to our stopping needs. I’ll be signing up soon for a couple of HPDE/autocross events and I’ll be needing some consumables. I’ll be going on my first track day with just some SRF fluid, taking it very slow (just a fun spirited drive) to gauge how the temps and pads behave. I was going first for a dedicated set of pads, PMU preferably.
I am using Paragon rotors (refuse to pay the OEM prices for 2020 2 piece rotors) and Winmax R5 front pads (from Paragon) up front and Hawk DTC 30s at the rear. Wear has been very good for both. The rotors are showing the tiny cracks I would expect but nothing big.
In the past, I have liked the Raybestos ST43 pad on other cars for up front but find the R5s quite similar.
I change back to street pads between events. This causes some issues with the transfer layer of the R5 still being on the rotors when using the street pads but quickly settles. No issues with the rears. The problem with this approach is that I have to rebed the fronts in the first session of track use as there is effectively no transfer layer present and they are pretty hard to bed in from street use (although it is possible depending on where you live)
How are you dealing with the EPB actuator? manually or scan tool.
- Use Foxwell NT510 Elite to deal with EPB actuator for Honda Civic Type R
Have to admit, I splurged and bought a Foxwell NT510 Elite Scan tool. (Couldn’t get the Autel tools to work on a 2020). I am sure it isn’t exactly necessary but is so easy to use and quick. I change rear pads at the track and if the pad going on the car is thicker than the ones coming off, I also use a simple brake compressor tool but again this is very quick. Biggest PITA is that the upper caliper 7mm Allen bolt needs an Allen key as I can’t get a 7mm socket in that space. Not a serious issue and you can use a regular drive for the lower one.
One interesting question is what sort of grease can be used for the rear slider pins? They don’t appear to come with any which surprises me.
- Manually Deal with EPB actuator for Honda Civic Type R
Doing the EPB manually is pretty easy all things considered. If I were swapping pads often I could see it getting annoying and at that point the tool might be worth it, but it only adds a few minutes to the job on each side. Also, PMU Club Racer pads have unfortunately been discontinued per the vendor I purchased from.
Finally! I found that the lube below does the job well and it does specify is high temp resistant and for caliper pins. I’ll look into the foxwell NT510 Elite tool, could be worth the investment in the long run.
More question: Anyone know if Raysbestos make the ST43 for the rear, I could find the front easily. Same with the Porterfield R4, they only make the R4S for the rear.
Experiences with Gloc pads for the CTR?
Answer: I personally don’t like runny the same compound at the rear as the front. Given that I track with more gripping tires than OEM, more weight transfers to the front and a less aggressive rear compound is called for to maintain brake balance. I really liked ST43 pads on my Corvette but when trying ST45 in front and ST 43 in the rear, there was far too much rear bias.
This does not mean that rear pads should be left stock as the rears can still get much hotter than what is required by street pads but you don’t want the same initial bite as the fronts.
Question: Got it… so the CTR is one of those that likes an easier compound on the rear? I just came out of an ND Miata which used same compound F/R but that had a 50/50 WD. Then again my FRS back in the days was ok with a stock rear pad for the most part(a lot less power and weight). This makes more sense and the Porterfield R4S would suffice for the rear then.
I’m not experienced enough to probably notice a rear bias but then again it may be that obvious in this car. This is why I like to hear what those with more seat time with this car have to say.
Answer: The better the front grip, the more weight transfer to the front under heavy braking and the less weight on the rear of the vehicle, front driver or not. Honda engineers (and others) are well aware of this which is why the front caliper and rotor are so much bigger than the rear. The issue with running stock pads at the rear is that they will get too hot with any prolonged lapping and just stop working. OTOH, it is nice to have some good initial bite from the pads at the front but that same bite at the rear is far more likely to cause a rear lock up. Our very slow endurance race car (Nissan Sentra) uses pretty aggressive front pads and believe it or not rear drums. A set of front pads might last 2 days while the rear brake shoes last a season and never cause lock up (we don’t have ABS)
in Foxwelltoo.com, only $149 to have one Foxwell NT510 Elite All-System OBD2 Bi-Directional Scanner.